The same day our family left George Town in The Exumas, Kory’s good friend, Richard, arrived from Phoenix, Arizona. Richard and Kory have known each other for almost sixteen years and worked together at Cisco Systems for more than twelve.
Richard told us he was bringing his son; but, to our surprise, his “son” turned out to be Bryan, another former co-worker and long-time friend of Kory’s. When Bryan stepped out of the taxi, Kory was stunned. He said he had a hard time mentally processing that his two best co-workers and friends were actually with him in The Bahamas. This really was a surprise of a lifetime for him. The three amigos were together again!
When the guys arrived at the boat, I was super happy to see Richard, and then astonished to discover that his “son” was Bryan! We were all so excited to reunite! After the guys put their stuff in their rooms, Kory and I were eager to take them for a ride in the dinghy to see the ruins at Crab Cay and take a trip down the lazy river. Bryan was as giddy as a schoolboy. I don’t think he had ever seen water this clear.
Kory had Richard bring some boat parts to us from the United States. When the Bahamian customs officers searched Richard’s bag, they asked for receipts for these items so they could exact a duty on them. Since Kory purchased these items online, and Richard did not have the receipts, the customs officers kept these items until Kory could go back with the receipts and pay the amount due. Richard decided to go with Kory, which required a dinghy ride into town and a taxi ride back to the airport.
Thankfully, they got the boat parts and decided to do some repair work as soon as they got back on Hope. I taught Bryan how to hoist Kory up the mast so he could install a new windex. A windex is a wind direction indicator that allows instant and accurate wind information at all points of sail. Ours had been inoperable since we left Staniel Cay, so it was nice to have the guys help get a new one installed. I made dinner while they wrapped up projects. The guys were so tired after a 21-hour trip to get here that we called it an early evening. We were so thankful to have our friends onboard for a whole week!
The next day, since neither Richard nor Bryan had ever sailed before, we decided to exit Elizabeth Harbor via the northwest Conch Cut, and head into the Exuma Sound (Atlantic Ocean) to practice sailing. It was the perfect day to do so, with calm seas and just enough wind to unfurl the head sail and make a leisurely trip southeast where we would re-enter Elizabeth Harbour.
With such light winds, It took us about four hours to make the sail, but we had a great time! We had both fishing poles out, and jumped up to reel in one of the lines when we thought we had caught a fish. Unfortunately, our line got tangled in SeaBreeze’s lines and we lost our lure. It was fun nonetheless. The day was warm and sunny, and because the waters were so calm, the guys decided to jump off the boat and go for a swim in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean in 1,000 feet of water. Here are pictures from that exciting excursion!
Thanks for the nice pic, Richard!
After a great morning of sailing, we exited Exuma Sound and re-entered Elizabeth Harbor in the southeast at North Channel Rocks cut. From there it was an easy motor to Man of War Cay where we anchored for the afternoon. We knew Bryan and Richard would love the sandbars in this location, as it has proven to be a favorite spot for us and our other guests
This was the only day all week that we would be able to walk the sandbars, so it worked out perfectly for us to be here this particular afternoon. The sandbars are only accessible at low tide, which happened to be at 4pm this day. For the rest of the week, the low tides were going to be after sunset and before dawn, so we wouldn’t have been able to explore the sandbars during this time. We were thankful that we had one day during Richard’s and Bryan’s visit to be able to traverse the long narrow sand banks. We spent the afternoon walking on the sand, wading in the waters, searching for shells, and enjoying the beauty of God’s creation!
On another occasion, we anchored at Goat Cay North and enjoyed clear green waters and white sand at Jolly Hall Beach. We made a couple of walks to the hardware store along Queen’s Highway and were even given a ride by a nice friendly couple on vacation from the state of Washington. Maryalice, Marsha, and I took several walks along the beach and enjoyed good conversations while the guys snorkeled, swam, and worked on boat projects.
We enjoyed dinner at Splash Beach Bar & Grille as we watched the sunset. After dinner, we had to walk back to our dinghy in the dark. Kory and I used the flashlights on our phones to help guide our way and then Richard, fully prepared as usual, whipped a bright flashlight out of his pocket and filled in the gaps for us. It was fun to walk along the beach at night, get into our dinghy in the dark, and head back to our boat, fully fed and ready for bed.
On the second day of our stay at Goat Cay, we were visited by two customs officials, one immigration officer, and two police officers who asked to board our boat. Apparently, they were boarding all of the boats in Elizabeth Harbor on this particular day, doing a routine check of cruising permits and passports, to make sure everyone was legal to be in The Bahamas.
In all the months we have been here, this is the first time anyone has ever checked our documents, let alone stepped on our boat. Thankfully, we had our documents readily accessible and were well prepared to present them. The officials were very nice and it was a quick and painless procedure. The only downside is that the police boat’s fenders scraped up against our hull and left big black marks. Thankfully, Kory was able to get those out later with Starbright Black Streak Remover. This stuff works great! I’m glad we had all the required documents. I shudder to think what kind of fees and repercussions there might be for those who hadn’t properly cleared customs.
The next morning at Goat Cay anchorage was astounding. We had virtually no wind when we awoke, and the waters were as still as a swimming pool. Bryan took advantage of an early morning swim and snorkel, while I marveled at the clarity of the water. We could see our anchor, chain, and bridle with absolute clarity.
We left Goat Cay and went across the harbor to Stocking Island. There, we anchored at Monument Beach to weather out the upcoming winds. This is a great spot to hide from easterly blows, and there is a lot to do here while you’re waiting.
At the top of Monument Hill, about 121 feet above the beach, lies a concrete beacon known as The Monument (or The Salt Beacon). The plaque describing this monument is missing, so I’m not exactly sure of it’s history, but I did discover that it was likely erected for navigational purposes. Regardless of the reason it’s there, we hiked up to the top of the hill on a couple of occasions to get some exercise and do some sightseeing.
Overlooking the west side of Monument Hill we were able to see the entire anchorage, including our boat floating in the background. We also could see rock formations left by other boaters who had written their boat names on the ground by assembling stones. It’s quite an impressive sight. We didn’t erect stones to leave a reminder of Hope, but maybe we will if we’re ever back here again.
Overlooking the east side of the hill is the Exuma Sound, flowing into the Atlantic Ocean. We were able to hike down to the beach and enjoy the splashing waves, the pristine white sand beach, and an opportunity to fly the drone.
The hiking on Monument Hill is some of the best that I’ve experienced in The Bahamas. Stocking Island is made up of giant sand dunes hardened into limestone rocks, and its terrain is quite unique. At times we were walking on a bed of pine needles tucked under foresty trees, then between mangrove bushes. At other times we were walking on lava-like rocks with tide pools, and then miles of packed-down fine oceanside beach.
One evening when we were anchored at Crab Cay North, near the ruins, the guys decided to treat me to a nice dinner to thank me for all of the cooking I had done over the week. I was so thrilled at the offer! Richard made reservations at Blu On The Water, an award-winning fine dining restaurant in The Exumas overlooking the sandbars. We had virtually no wind that evening, so the two-mile dinghy ride was smooth and exiting.
Tying up to the dinghy dock was not the most pleasant. Kory had to practice his mediterranean mooring skills as the rest of us scrambled up the hill to the restaurant to avoid being eaten by the no-see-ums. They were out with a vengeance at sunset, as usual on windless days.
The ambiance was splendid, the view breathtaking, and the food masterfully prepared and loaded with flavor. It was definitely on the pricey side, and the servings were smaller than desired, but it was an experience we will remember. What a treat! Thanks, guys!
The day before Richard and Bryan left, we decided to sail to Emerald Bay Marina, about two hours north, to top off our fuel tanks, since the dock in George Town didn’t have diesel. The winds were light, about 10-12 knots and the seas were calm with less than a one-foot wave height. On the way to the marina, we hoisted the main sail (which was new for Richard and Bryan) and unfurled the Genoa. On the way back, we unfurled the massive Screecher and sailed on a nice beam reach both legs of the trip.
It was an easy entry into the marina on this calm day, but it looks like it could be a little rough getting into the narrow inlet when the seas are picked up. We followed a yacht into the marina and quickly spotted the fuel dock. The fenders were hung and the dock lines secured, so we were ready to cast our lines to the attendant as Kory eased us onto the dock. This was Richard’s and Bryan’s first time docking, and I think it proved to be a fun experience for both of them.
After topping off the tanks and paying for the fuel at the marina, we asked if we could stay on the dock for a couple of hours while we toured the nearby resort. The marina official was cordial enough to let us stay for free for a few hours, provided we move the boat to a different dock. This was good practice as both Bryan and Richard learned how to hook the dock line to a cleat without the help of an attendant. It’s always good practice for me as well!
Emerald Bay is a massive, five-star, full-service marina that handles yachts up to 240 feet. This marina is also a port of entry with 133 slips, a 14-foot draft, fuel, power, and luxury amenities. We were most impressed with the Bellingham Concrete Floating Docks, the nicest docks we’ve seen in The Bahamas.
We walked from the marina to the Resort and strolled along the cart path of the 18-hole, par 72, Greg Norman designed golf course. We visited a small gift shop at Grand Isle Resort and had lunch at Palapa Grille overlooking a negative edge pool and the Exuma Banks. It was a charming place. This is also the location of the all-inclusive Sandals Resort, but we didn’t have time for a tour on this trip.
The three amigos and I had a great week together. We packed in a lot of activities but also had plenty of time to relax, have good conversations, eat hearty meals, and watch classic movies. Thank you, Richard and Bryan, for taking the time and expense to visit us. It was a wonderful reunion! God bless you both! Lord willing, we’ll get to do it again someday!
