Although we enjoyed spending time on the Dutch side of St. Martin, especially at the many chandleries and markets, we gained a fonder appreciation for the French side. The island’s French side is known for its mountainous views, pristine beaches, outdoor markets, clothing stores, and French and Indian-Caribbean cuisine. It’s also a very peaceful place, with friendly locals, and a slower and more authentic Caribbean-European feel. The Dutch side, on the other hand, is more commercial and lively, with a bustling nightlife, theaters, and casinos. Since the busy nightlife isn’t our cup-of-tea, the French side became a welcome respite.
Marigot:
We were anchored in The Lagoon on the French side of the island which was close to the capital town of Marigot (pronounced meh·ree·gow). It was originally a fishing village, and got its name from the many swampy backwaters, or marigots, that used to be there. Today, Marigot is a charming town, lined with sidewalk bistros, gingerbread houses, balconies with finely crafted railings, monuments, and eclectic architecture. The town experienced quite a bit of damage in 2017 from Hurricane Irma, and there are still remnants of dilapitated homes and buildings, but it has been mostly rebuilt, and is now very chic!
Rue de la République is the main street on the seafront of Marigot. It is home to a wide variety of shops and delicacies. One can sample Caribbean fare like creole red snapper and freshly grilled lobster from an open air grill, or buttery croissants, French pastries, and croque-monsieurs (sandwiches) at one of the many French cafés. We really enjoyed Chez Fernand French Bakery where we frequented for breakfast on several occasions.
I was able to go shopping one day and browse through dozens of fine fashion boutiques. This place is really up-and-coming, but not pretentious at all. On my walk, I also stumbled upon the government plaza, statues, and historic buildings.
One of the days we were in Marigot, we went to a fancy French restaurant with Ken and Lynn, called La Petite Auberge. It’s a small bistro on the dock of the marina with white table cloths and lots of charm. The chef expertly cooked and plated our appetizers and main dishes. We even enjoyed cappuccinos for an after dinner treat like the Parisians!
After our fine lunch, we walked around Marigot and ended up in a French cheese shop, Le Comptoir des Fromages. The friendly employee allowed us to sample the cheeses before we bought them, and she also gave us a brief lesson on types of cheeses, the aging process, and how to properly cut and store cheese. We purchased a few slabs of our favorite cheeses to take back to the boat. What a fun and educational outing!
On one occasion when Kory and I were leaving Island Water World, we ran into a husband and wife who were loading groceries from a small car into a cart. Whenever I see a cart being loaded near a dock, I assume the people are getting ready to haul provisions back to their boat, and it’s a great conversation starter. It turns out they were fellow cruisers and were happy to share a few tips with us. We learned about a great place to go shopping that is similar to Costco (Cost-U-Less, without a membership fee), a great person to rent a car from (Babita), and a great city to explore (Grande Case).
So we rented a car from Babita for $45 per day and split the cost with Ken and Lynn. It was so affordable, and gave us an opportunity to explore the island for a full day. Our goal was to spend the afternoon in Grande Case, stop at other interesting sights along the way, and finish the day with a trip to ACE Hardware store and Cost-U-Less.
Grande Case:
Grande Case turned out to be a favorite. It is a modern little French town on the northern side of St. Martin known for its stupendous dining (particularly French cuisine), its long white sand beaches, resort hotels, boutiques, shops, and beach shacks. The sign at the entrance to town lets you know you are entering The “Gourmet Capital of St. Martin,” and that what it is. There were over 20 restaurants lining the town’s main street alone.
We asked a local shopkeeper in Grande Case where we should eat lunch since it was difficult for us to choose among the many restaurant options. She recommended the restaurant at the boutique hotel, Le Temps des Cerises (LTC), which means the “Time of Cherries”. It turned out to be an incredible eatery overlooking the Caribbean Sea. It was a sunny day and the waters in the harbor shined a brilliant turquoise. What a backdrop! Our food was delicious and masterfully prepared. You know the chef is good when you continue to talk about the food well after you’ve left the restaurant. Kory is still trying to find a tuna poke bowl as flavorful as the one he had at LTC.
Fort Louis:
Fort Louis is another popular place to visit on the French side of the island. It was built in 1789 and sits high atop a hill overlooking Marigot Bay. The French used this fort to defend themselves from enemy attack (mostly British and Dutch pirates). It was also used to protect its plentiful harbor warehouses which stored salt, rum, sugar, and coffee. We didn’t actually walk to the top, but we could see the fort from downtown Marigot.
Our time on the French side of St. Martin was truly memorable. We fell in love with it’s slow-paced, peaceful, European vibe. The locals were friendly and impeccably hospitable, and it was a pleasure to immerse ourselves in their culture. We hope to return to this lovely place if the opportunity presents itself. But next time, we’d learn some French so we can participate more with the locals in their native tongue. Au revoir, St. Martin!