Culebra, the Isla Chiquita

We left Viequez for Culebra at the first sign of daylight. It was a 23 nautical mile trip and took us about 3 hours to get there. The seas were flat-calm for the first two hours with wind speeds only about 6 knots, so we had to motor two-thirds of the trip. After that, the winds picked up to 12-15 knots and we were able to sail the rest of the way on a port tack with a close haul point-of-sail. Upon arriving in the Ensenada Honda anchorage, and merely seeing the beautiful terrain and clean waters, we knew we were going to like this little island.

Culebra (or “Snake”) is part of the archipelago of Puerto Rico, and is located less than 20 miles east of the mainland. For the curious, there are not many snakes on the island and its shape doesn’t resemble a serpent, so I’m not sure why it’s called “Snake” island. Culebra is also known as “Isla Chiquita” (small island) because of its small size — 7 miles long and 2 miles wide. We hear you can explore most of the island in a couple of days.

In 1909, U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt established Culebra as a national wildlife refuge to protect its many tropical birds, fish, giant sea turtles, and other coastal wildlife. In just our first hour of being in Culebra, we saw a sea turtle, a huge iguana, pelicans, small tropical fish, and a dozen giant tarpan fish. We also saw roosters, chickens, stray cats, and dogs everywhere. It’s like walking in a zoo, only far more beautiful with brilliantly clear green waters and a tropical feel.

Culebra has a very laid back, beachy, island vibe. We drove our dinghy around to scope out part of the island from the water. As with many islands, we saw a mix of old and new, worn down and modern, laid back and thriving.

After our extended dinghy ride, we took a walk through town and then had dinner at Mamacitas with our friends Craig and Bobbi on catamaran Mona Kai. Our boat is registered in Phoenix, and theirs in Queen Creek, Arizona, so we immediately hit it off as we learned we had lived within ten miles of each other. We never met them in Arizona, and then we met them in The Bahamas, thousands of miles away. It sure is a small world!

We didn’t stay in Culebra long. We missed out on Flamenco beach, snorkeling, and some of the other natural attractions. However, we did get a good feel of the island during our stay. I would definitely anchor here again, head to the beach next time, and enjoy another waterside restaurant while praising God for his amazing flora and fauna. This place really is a natural wildlife marvel!

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